Typically, the woman's shoulders were bare and she wore large earrings. In the late s the black radical H. Rap Brown complained that underneath their natural hairstyles too many blacks had "processed minds.
As fashion incorporated the formerly shocking style, it detached the Afro from its political origins. The hair-care industry worked to position the Afro as one option among many and to reassert hair straightening as the essential first step of black women's hair care. In a style known as the Curly Afro, which required straightening and then curling hair, became popular for black women. In Ron O'Neal revived pres subcultural images of black masculinity when he wore long wavy hair as the star of the film Superfly.
Large Afros continued to be popular through the s but their use in the era's blaxploitation films introduced new associations with Hollywood's parodic representations of black subcultures.
While the large round Afro is so strongly associated with the s that it is most frequently revived in comical retro contexts, the Afro nonetheless had enduring consequences. It permanently expanded prevailing images of beauty.
After a few songs she removed the wig to reveal her short unstraightened hair. Reporters described her hair using the language employed by those who had first attempted to describe the styles worn by singer Nina Simone, Abbey Lincoln, and Odetta at the beginning of the s.
They called it "close-cropped. Through the Afro the public grew accustomed to seeing the texture of unstraightened hair as beautiful and the way was opened for a proliferation of unstraightened African American styles.
Bracey, John H. Black Nationalism in America. New York: Bobbs-Merrill Company, Craig, Maxine Leeds. Includes a detailed history of the emergence of the Afro. Davis, Angela Y. Davis reflects on the use of photographs of her Afro in fashion images devoid of political content. Kelley, Robin D. Kelley traces the black bohemian origins of the Afro and its transformation from a feminine to masculine style.
Mercer, Kobena. Minh-ha, and Cornel West, Cambridge, Mass. Mercer places the Afro in the context of earlier black hair care practices and challenges the widely held view that hair-straightening represented black self-hatred. Fashion History Body Fashions History of the Afro Hairstyle At the end of the s, a small number of young black female dancers and jazz singers broke with prevailing black community norms and wore unstraightened hair.
Pre-Existing Norms In the s black women were expected to straighten their hair. African American Dress History of Wigs Hairstyles and Fashion The technology of hair straightening served prevailing gender norms that defined long wavy hair as beautifully feminine. Origins of the Afro Folk singer Odetta circa In the late s and early s, awareness of newly independent African nations and the victories and setbacks of the civil rights movement encouraged feelings of hope and anger, as well as exploration of identity among young African Americans.
In and Abbey Lincoln toured with Grandassa, a group of models and entertainers whose fashion shows promoted the link between black pride and what had begun to be called variously the "au naturel," "au naturelle," or "natural" look. Early Reactions Though they received support for the style among fellow activists, the first women who wore unstraightened styles experienced shocked stares, ridicule, and insults for wearing styles that were perceived as appalling rejections of community standards.
Popularization Angela Davis speaking at Mills College in Oakland As larger numbers of black men and women wore the Afro, workplace and intergenerational conflicts lessened. Bibliography Bracey, John H. African American Dress. History of Wigs. Hairstyles and Fashion. Disco Hairstyles.
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She also gives product advice that helps new N'happys learn how to style their hair. We can have our hair, and walk proudly down the street. While straightened hair is still the most common way to wear women's hair in Senegal, women like Agboton hope that with a little encouragement and advice, more women will choose to go natural.
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